sisters stands the test of time

Source: Sisters Cuisine

Sisters Cuisine is a well-known Caribbean eatery in East Harlem located at 47 East 124th Street. The family business was established in 1995 by Marlyn Rogers, a Guyanese immigrant, after tasting food elsewhere, being dissatisfied, and deciding she could do it better. Sisters’ menu features a mix of traditional Guyanese, Jamaican, Trinidadian and Southern dishes, representative of the melting pot that Guyanese culture itself is. In more recent years, Marlyn’s son, Chef RanDE Rogers, took over the business and is now head chef and owner.

“Our in-house restaurant menu hasn’t changed much in the past 26 years that we've been here. [My family] started cooking what they knew and loved themselves. If it ain't broke, don't fix it - that’s my philosophy on it,” Chef RanDe says. Most of the dishes are recipes passed down but with a twist, as Chef RanDE has tweaked them here and there over the years.

“We're such a big family and that's also just a custom in our culture, to do big pot cooking out back over a fire. So we've always been doing big batch cooking fresh and daily,” Chef RanDE states. The kitchen staff is 99% women, made up of cousins and family friends from the Caribbean islands and Senegal that have been with the business for years.

Chef RanDe describes Caribbean food as powerful, and it's clear his clientele agrees. The oxtail and roti dishes are their biggest sellers, with each flaky roti being prepared fresh to order. People from all over swear by his food, many of which have been coming to Sisters for years. “This lady comes in and talks about how she used to eat my mom's food when she was a baby in her mother's stomach. And now her baby is eating our food. So she's got three generations all grown up on our food.”

Chef RanDe notes there are many customers with stories like hers from all over NYC and neighboring states that come to get a taste of their delicious food. They also have a notable list of celebrity clients including Remy Ma, WuTang Clan, and Immortal Technique. Chef Marcus Sameulsson’s wife swore by their food while she was pregnant, and Questlove requested Sisters be featured in his Seamless commercial.

While he does have many familiar faces that frequent the restaurant, he’s noticed the immediate community has gentrified dramatically. “We're in East Harlem. In '95, we were the roughest part of Harlem. There were no white people ever, ever, ever. When I was growing up as a kid, everybody would have looked and thought ‘What's that person doing here?’ Now, Neil Patrick Harris lives down the freaking block. That was an unheard of prospect when I was growing up.”

Source: Sisters Cuisine

Still, Sisters continues to stand the test of time. The food, the inviting atmosphere, and the community they’ve built showcases that the restaurant provides exactly what it intends to - traditional Caribbean fare made with love. Reviews rave about the eatery with one reading, “Sisters is by far the absolute best Jamaican food in NYC, maybe beyond. Always fresh, delicious and great service!” Another reads, “Drop by when you get the chance. It's almost as if family is in the kitchen cooking. It's like home.”

For those interested in trying Sisters Cuisine, Chef RanDe recommends a couple options. “It depends on how much you like spicy and how adventurous your palate is. If you like spicy food and you’re adventurous, I'd say the curried goat. It’s got a lot of heat but you need it to cut the gameyness. If you don't like heat but still are a bit adventurous, the oxtail is definitely a hitter. The meat is really tender.”

For plant-based eaters, Sisters has got you covered. “You ain't gotta worry, we were doing veganism before it was popular. Rastafarians were probably 50% of our customers when we first opened. I would go for the veggie roti [which comes with vegetables, curried chickpeas and potatoes] and roti. Our rotis are fresh to order, so you get a nice flaky, fresh roti bread.” All of their side dishes such as callaloo, coconut rice and peas, and steamed cabbage are made vegan as well.

If you’re in East Harlem, visit Sisters for a taste of traditional, Caribbean food cooked with love, and some of the best roti I’ve had.

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Cooking, Capitalism, and Consumption